Basic supplies that will need for your Bearded Dragon:
Husbandry is KEY!!
Enclosure: You will need an enclosure equivalent to a 40g breed tank OR an enclosure that is 4ft wide X 2ft long x 2ft high. The rule of thumb is the bigger the enclosure the better, your dragon will enjoy the space to move freely!
UVB: A T5 High Output linear bulb and fixture that measures half of the size of your enclosure. We recommend using a Zoomed Reptisun fixture with 10.0 high output bulb OR Arcadia T5 fixture with 12% bulb. If you go with Reptisun you will need to change your bulb every 6 months and if you go with Arcadia you will need to change your bulb yearly for optimal UVB output. Make sure that your bulb goes with the type of fixture, if you purchase a T8 fixture, a T5 bulb will not work!
*** It is extremely important to provide your dragon the proper UVB, without UVB your dragon could potentially develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), which is a bone disorder that causes severe deformity. MBD is not able to be cured or reversed! You can prevent the progression of MBD but this will be something you deal and closely monitor with for the entirety of your dragons life.
Basking bulb and dome: Providing the correct temperatures for your animals is extremely important!
Reptiles are cold blooded animals that regulate their temperatures in their environment therefore your enclosure MUST INCLUDE a warm side for your dragon to bask and a cool side where they can cool down. To produce the appropriate basking temperature you can use any plain white household bulb,
the wattage will depend on how close your basking spot is. Start at a lower wattage and if the temperatures are not high enough, increase the wattage until you can maintain a basking area at around 105-110 degrees. The “cool” side should be around 80 degrees. It is important to test your temperatures
out before your animal arrives so that you are not experimenting with temperatures, which can cause stress to your dragon.
Basking platform: You dragon will need a solid flat surface to lay out on and absorb the heat while basking. You can buy a basking platform from a local pet store or use granite or slate sheets/rocks under the basking bulb. Cork bark and branches work to provide cooler surfaces for your animal to lay on. Whichever option you decide, make sure that the platform can support the weight of your dragon and will not shift or fall out of place when you dragon climbs.
Substrate: When housing a juvenile, you can use newspaper, paper towels, or something similar for easy changes for convenience and maximum cleanliness! These are cheap options! If you are using reptile carpet or sand-textured mats, we recommend using something that feels and looks like grass or sand
that your dragon’s nails will not catch on. When you are confident in your husbandry and your dragon is older, you can use loose substrate such as a mix of sand and soil or children’s play sand.
** AVOID calcium sand, crushed walnut, and colored sand marketed for reptiles! These are not digestible and puts your dragon at risk for impaction!
Supplements: Just as important as UVB, the correct supplementation is key! A quality calcium with D3 AND a quality multivitamin supplement should be used. You should use the calcium 3-4 times a week and the multivitamin 2-3 times a week. We use Lugarti calcium with D3 and Lugarti Herptivite.
** Make sure that the calcium is phosphorous free! If you have any questions about the supplements you have or just want to double check anything feel free to reach out to us!
>>>> You can purchase supplements Here <<<<
Feeding and diet: All dragons should be offered a variety of live feeder insects of appropriate size. The insects should be no larger than the space between your dragons’ eyes. Dragons should also be offered salads daily! Salads are important for hydration and should be light dusted with supplements.
Juvenile dragons: should eat appropriately sized live feeder insects 3-4 times a day 7-10 size insects a sitting.
Sub-adult dragons: should eat 10-13 appropriately sized feeder insects once a day.**Feed dragon in 10-15 minute period and REMOVE insects after feeding! Loose insects all day can stress your dragon out.
Other general care: All your dragons will need to be housed individually. They are not social animals and will compete for the best resources, which can lead to injury and malnutrition. Soak your dragon 1-3 times a week at slightly warm/ room temperature water that sits up to their elbows. This ensures that your dragon stays hydrated and helps keep them clean and free of feces.
It is recommended that you take your dragon to an exotics animal vet visit for a yearly check-up. We say exotics animal vet, meaning they have an understanding of reptiles and know how to treat these animals. A fecal test is highly advisable to view the overall health of your dragon and to ensure that the
dragon is free of parasites.
BEFORE bringing your Dragon home:
Make sure you have your Dragon’s enclosure set up and that you have the appropriate temperature gradient! Having all this prepared before your Dragon’s arrival will help them settle in better and will allow your animal to grow and thrive. Please remember husbandry is key to a happy and healthy dragon.
Please keep in mind that it can take up to 2 weeks for your dragon to settle and become accustomed to their new environment. It’s especially important during this time to offer a soak to your dragon to maintain hydration. Your dragon may hide from you for a little while or not want to eat in front of you, this behavior is totally normal in the beginning stages. Continue working with your dragon, providing some interaction based on the dragons comfortability, and offering insects and salads daily.
If somethings seems not right or you notice anything that is worrisome, feel free to reach out! We are more than happy to help and offer assistance in the best way we can!!
- 40g breeder tank / PVC Enclosure min: 4ft wide X 2ft long x 2ft high
- UVB Fixture and Bulb: T5 HO UVB! You can choose from Arcadia Fixture the length of half your tank with
- 12% or 14% bulb OR Reptisun fixture the length of half your tank with 10.0 bulb.
- Basking bulb: Any form of reptile brand basking bulb 75W-100W (these are usually priced a little higher because of the reptile brand tied to the bulb) OR you can use a regular bulb from a hardware store halogen spotlight 75W-100W
- Dome fixture that can accommodate your basking wattage! I have used a dual deep dome fixture by zoomed to hold both my basking AND my night time heating (CHE or Arcadia deep heat penetrator)
- Thermometer: Ideal to measure the ambient temps so one at the hot end and one at the cool end
- Temperature gun
- IF you want a substrate: Tiles and PVC from your hardware store are a great option! If you are using a PVC enclosure using the bare bottom of the PVC enclosure works great!
- Calcium with Vit. D3
- Multivitamin Powder
Optional but HIGHLY RECOMMENDED purchases:
Nighttime heat if your enclosure will drop below 70 degrees Fahrenheit: A CHE / Arcadia deep heat penetrator are great options
Heavy duty Velcro or command hooks! (mounting uvb lighting)
A surge protector: I use the KASA SMART outlet brand because of the ability to set a time for each socket or Surge protector AND timer.